Katanning wine industry
Frederick Henry Piesse CMG
Mr. Frederick Henry Piesse first settled and made his home in Katanning in 1889, but it was not until 1891 that the nucleus his vineyard and adjacent orchard was formed. The purpose of planting in the first instance was to demonstrate the suitability of the soil and climate for the production of sound light wines. It is a matter of record that his resulting wines went on to win awards at the 1904 Perth Royal Show (Ferguson Cup) and a gold medal at the Franco-British Exhibition in London in 1908.
It was not until 1902 that the family employed a winemaker, Carl Bungert, who was selected by A. E. Piesse who was visiting South Australia. The original winery was erected in 1904 using bricks from the Piesse brickworks.
The following is a report from the West Australian newspaper in July, 1912, outlining the state of the wine industry in Western Australia and particularly in Katanning. Unfortunately, it was at a time of sadness for the Piesse family and for the state as Frederick Piesse had not long passed away.
The winery in production c1907
OUR VINEYARDS.
NEGLECTED OPPORTUNITIES.
THE KATANNING VINEYARD.
West Australian
July 13, 1912
(By E.W.)
The purpose of these articles is to direct attention to the immense possibilities presented by the soil and climate of large areas of Western Australia for the production of sound high-class wines, for which there is an ever-increasing demand in the markets of the old world, particularly in those countries where climatic conditions make the sufficient ripening of the grape impossible. The record of what has been already done in this State in viticulture, and wine making, is the surest indication of what may be the almost unlimited expansion of a great and profitable productive industry.
Hitherto there has not been any marked progress in this direction in Western Australia. In fact, the statistics of the last decade tell rather of Retrogression than Progression.
In February, 1903, there were 3,528 acres in vineyards in this State, but in February, 1912, there were only 2,973 acres! Of course, a considerable proportion of the production of these acres was not used for wine making but comprised table grapes. But the record is also that in 1911 only 153,665 gallons of wine were made, as against 158,853 gallons in 1903.
The falling-off may be largely accounted for by the abolition of all State Customs border duties consequent upon the adoption of the Commonwealth constitution. Yet it is noticeable that in the same decade, while vine culture decreased, other fruit culture, represented by the orchards of the State, increased from 6,872 acres in 1903, to 17,941 acres in 1912.
The position may be further illustrated and emphasised by the records of what has been accomplished in the sister state of South Australia. Fifty years ago, the acreage under vine culture and the quantity of wine made in South Australia, was far in excess of Western Australia’s record today.
The South Australian Government Statist’s report says: – “The acreage of vines in March, 1862, is returned as 3,918, against 3,180 in the previous year. The quantity of wine returned as made is that produced in the season 1860-61, viz., 312,021 gallons, an increase over the previous season of no less than 129,934 gallons, or 70 per cent above the quantity made in the previous year, viz., 182,087 gallons.”
These figures are presented now to illustrate by comparison with the latest statistics the vast progress achieved by South Australia in 50 years, and to suggest to the producers of this State the pertinent question, why should not equal progress be accomplished here in the years before us?
The industry in South Australia.
This is the story of the vine, wine, and spirit industry in South Australia, as given by the retiring president of the South Australian Vinegrowers’ Association at the annual meeting held on May 29 of this year.
“Some years ago;” he said, “cellars were full of wine, and it was with difficulty it could be disposed of. Now, the demand was greater than the supply. Planting was going on. One large wine firm was planting every year, and in two years would have 700 acres under vines. The total area under vines was 24,000 acres! Before these vines come into bearing, the cost would be £11 per acre, or £264,000 spent on labour. The labour annually paid for would absorb £67,000, and the wages paid in the cellars would be at least another £40,000 a year.
Thirty-six thousand tons of grapes were produced in South Australia last year. Altogether, 3,500,000 gallons of wine, and 318,000 gallons of spirits were made. The value of the grapes grown was £600,000. The quantity of South Australian wine exported in 1911 was 585,000 gallons, and 1,750 tons of raisins and 2,000 tons of currants were made. On spirits the excise duty paid last year was £20,000. Standard brandy was in an important position, and the Federal Government, by means of the Spirit Act, assisted producers of the genuine article.
Buildings and plant were worth £20,000,000. The inter-state trade in 1909 was £93,080, and to-day much more. There was a great demand for export wines in Europe, and contracts had been made for several years ahead.”
Facts like these challenge attention and merit consideration. Why should not what has been done in the neighbouring State be emulated, if not exceeded in Western Australia? The area of available land is greater, and there are natural conditions here as suitable to viticulture and the production of high-class wines and brandy as any to be found elsewhere.
And the degree of development that has been reached is but as the index of the future. It should not be many years before West Australians, if not all literally sitting under their own fig trees, should at least be drinking homemade wines and spirits, and those engaged in a great productive industry have reason to say “That all as yet accomplished or begun is but the dawning that precedes the sun.”
With reference to the proposed articles indicated above, a letter has been received from a prominent representative of the Bridgetown Fruitgrowers’ Association and an experienced orchardist, in which the following remarks occur:- “If you should succeed in arousing public interest in this State in the problem of viticulture, you will, to my mind, have performed a very great public benefit. It is the unanimous verdict of visiting experts and practical men that in the limestone country in the Swan district, grapes could be grown superior to any produced in any other portion of the Commonwealth.”
The Katanning Vineyard.
It is a mournful opening, but mingled with the general sorrow for the all too premature death of the late Hon. F. H. Piesse, C.M.G., there is some consolation in knowing that in the vineyard now to be described, inadequately, it may be, a noble and enduring monument will remain of the intelligent foresight and patriotic enterprise of the good son the State has lost. It is an object lesson wherein the teachings of experience have been freely given for the common good. From the commencement of operations a series of tests have been conducted and the results are available for general guidance.
The late Mr. Piesse first settled and made his home in Katanning in 1889, but it was not until 1891 that the nucleus of the present vineyard and adjacent orchard was formed. At this time Mr. Piesse was associated in business with his brother, Mr. C. A. Piesse. M.L.C.
The name of the old firm F. and C. Piesse, is still retained, and another brother, Mr. Arnold Piesse, M.L.A., had the management of the vineyard. Of late a son, Mr. Fred T. R. Piesse, has had the oversight.
The purpose of planting in the first instance was to demonstrate the suitability of the soil and climate for the production of sound light wines. The contents of the cellars afford ample evidence that so much at least has been accomplished. Neither the soil of the vineyard nor the elevation above sea-level – about 1,100 feet – is calculated to produce a heavy, full bodied wine, but that is not required for Australian consumption.
The situation has been well chosen. The vines are planted in gently rising ground, and the fruit trees for the most part on the lower lying flat. The soil over all is mostly a light, sandy loam on the surface, with a clay subsoil from 18 to 24 inches below. In places the surface soil is stiffer and breaks up in small clods, but it, is generally so friable that in preparing it for planting, trenching was unnecessary. Only ploughing and other ordinary cultivation were resorted to.
About 10 acres of vines and the same area of orchard were planted in 1891, the vines being mostly Doradilla, Muscat and Mourastel. Now there are in all 120 acres under vines and 80 acres of orchard. An inducement to extend the planted area was found in the prevalence of a belief that the Government of the day would give some State aid to wineries proposed to be established in vine growing centres. And even wine grapes at the time fetched high prices for table purposes.
But with Federation came the abolition of border Customs duties, and the consequent opening of the local market to other States. Nothing came of the suggested aid to central wineries, and when markets could not be found for the grapes grown wine-making was started at Katanning, and the vineyard extended to its present dimensions.
There are now 11 acres of Muscat, 15 of Mourastel, 10 of Shirus, 10 of Cabernet, 5 of Grenache, 5 of Riesling, 20 of Doradilla, 3 of Pedro Ximenes, 10 of Wortley Hall, I8 of miscellaneous sorts, and 13 of Sercial planted recently.
Some of these vines are staked, some trellised, and others are allowed to grow in gooseberry bush fashion. Experience has justified the adoption of the liberal distance of 10ft. by 8ft. apart, and horse-hoeing is freely practised between the rows. There is a notable absence of lime in the soil, but dressings are being applied and the effect is bound to the beneficial. No effort or expense is begrudged to obtain the best result, and to realise what they have been we must sample what the cellars contain.
From the Cellars
The first submitted for an opinion was a light white wine of the Chablis type. It is made from the Doradilla grape and is of high quality and delicate character. A fine hock wine is made from Riesling, and a blend of Gouais and another from Riesling alone. A claret of high character soft on the palate and of good bouquet is made from Cabernet only. In South Australia a favourite blend for claret is Shiraz with Cabernet, but all Cabernet should be a more delicate wine, but is not so prolific in yield.
What many judges would consider the choicest vintage in the cellar is a tawny port, perfect in colour, rich in substance and flavour, but not heavy or beady. The sample produced had been lately bottled from bulk and is 10 years old. It will still improve with age, and should be good enough for any connoisseur to enjoy with his walnuts. It is made from a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet, and Grenache. A blend of the same grapes grown on stronger soil might give a heavier-bodied wine, but not of the same delicacy, with richness.
Where such a wine can be produced competition may be challenged. Other sorts made are from the Muscat and a Constantia, but it may be doubted whether it is wise to attempt many varieties of similar character.
Average Yields.
As to the average it was represented that the Doradilla gave about 500 gallons, and other sorts varied from 150 to 450 gallons to the acre. The total annual output is about 20,000 gallons, and the storage capacity of the cellars is 60,000, mainly in 1,000-gallon vats made of English oak.
A practical lesson taught by the production of the wines referred to is that the light, sandy soil, which is mainly characteristic of the country around Katanning is capable, with the application of capital, of ensuring far more profitable results than ordinary farming, even where the most approved methods of cultivation are adopted.
There are some areas in the vicinity of stronger, and it may be more fertile soil, that would give a greater bulk of produce, but it is amply proved that the lighter soil will yield wine of a high quality if in less quantity. And to establish a reputation for the vintages of any locality quality rather than quantity should be aimed at.
A Noteworthy Feature.
There is one feature of the cellarage system at Katanning deserving of special notice. Nearly all the motive power that is required is supplied by electricity. When the grapes are carted to the winery they are elevated to the crushers by electric power, and the must is afterwards pumped to the fermenting tanks through Dunlop rubber hosing by the same agency.
Piesse enterprise has installed an electrical plant at the large roller flour mills in the town, and engines, one of 125-horsepower and another of 25-horsepower, are used, apart from the power required for milling purposes. Quite a network of wires, electric and telephonic, connect the cellars and the several residences of the members of the Piesse family.
Distillation.
A commencement has not yet been, but is expected to be, made in the distillation of pure grape brandy for the local market, and it may be hoped for export also.
A 500-gallon still has been erected, but at present is only used for cellar requirements. As good wine is made, so can good brandy be distilled. It may be wondered why the demand for even home consumption has not long since been supplied by the genuine article of home production. There can be no doubt success will reward the enterprise establishing such an industry.
The Orchard.
It has already been stated that the orchard area comprises 80 acres. Of these there are 35 acres of apples, 30 of pears, 10 of plums, and 5 of peaches and cherries. Of apples the principal sorts are Cleopatra, Jonathan, Rome Beauty, and Dunn’s Seedling. The local markets absorb the supply.
Of pears there are the Bartlett, esteemed the foremost, Winter Nelis, Josephine, and Vicar of Winkfield, a good keeping sort.
Oranges have not been planted. Mr. F. H. Harrison, the experienced manager, has been fruit growing at Renmark for 21 years, holds that oranges cannot be grown successfully without summer rains or irrigation, and even where the latter is practicable, he prefers “the maximum of cultivation and the minimum of irrigation.”
The expert in charge of the cellars is Mr. Carl Bunnerth. He has had some years’ experience in the wine cellars at Highercombe and at Pen fold’s in South Australia, but he is enthusiastic about the wines of Katanning.
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